Elspeth Probyn

Elspeth Probyn is Professor of Gender and Cultural Studies at the University of Sydney. She has taught media, cultural studies and sociology at several international universities, and has held several prestigious visiting appointments around the world. Her work has helped to establish several new areas of scholarship. Professor Probyn is the author of several groundbreaking monographs on subjectivity and gender in cultural studies (Sexing the Self: Gendered Positions in Cultural Studies), on queer desire and belonging (Outside Belonging), on eating and identity (FoodSexIdentity), on affect and emotion (Blush: Faces on Shame). She has also published well over 150 articles and chapters across the fields of gender, media, and cultural studies, sociology, philosophy, cultural geography, anthropology and critical psychology. Her current research, Sustainable Fish: A Material Analysis of Cultures of Consumption and Production, funded by an Australian Research Council Discovery Project, analyses the sustainability of the production and consumption of fish, or ‘more-than-human” sustainable fish communities, the results of which are published in a new book, Eating the Ocean.

Eating the Ocean - The wide angle

This book is a passionate, sometimes critical and frustrated intervention into the current dominant politics of food. Public campaigns, and journalistic writing often dumb down complex questions into banal slogans: eat local, eat seasonally, etc. In terms of the global-local configurations of fishing, it is hard to “eat local” fish. If you want a slogan for fish it would have to be eat small.Within marine the “simplification of the sea” refers fishing down the web – how we are eliminating the top predators, and then ever downwards. This allows for exploding populations of crustaceans and other invertebrates, which is good for lobstermen. But in the (not so) long run, this destroys ecosystems and threatens trophic collapse whereby we are back to the jellyfish scenario with seas filled with medusoza, and gelatinous zooplankton that nothing wants to eat. I hijack this scientific term and use it to talk about how in public debate the sea is being simplified. Numerous well-meaning NGO campaigns resort to simplistic devices such as the traffic light system, whereby red is bad. Even these have been further dumbed down now to only “green” ticks.As a longtime feminist, and writer, my turn to fish has disconcerted many. It does, however, follow from my many studies of various aspects of eating. I also challenge how in current discussions about the Anthropocene, “age of the human,” gender seems to be passé. From a discussion of mermaids through to the lives of fisherwomen, I seek to elevate gendered and queer matters of human-fish entanglement. At a conceptual level I grapple with how gender and sexuality, as well as ethnicity and class, have been squeezed out of academic discussions about the Anthropocene, climate change and the more-than-human. I seek to recover the lost stories of the women who have followed fish, and to hear what happens to human-fish settlements when the fish disappear.Two instances of this ground the chapter in history – the rise and fall of the herring industry in Scotland that lasted from the nineteenth century until post WW II, and the collapse of the cod fisheries of the Great Banks off Newfoundland and Labrador in Canada. The women who form the overwhelming workforce in fish processing, as well as the fishwives who kept the books of family fish businesses could see that a crisis was looming. In the male-dominated world of scientists and fisheries managers, their voices weren’t counted; they didn’t matter.

Editor: Judi Pajo
December 21, 2016

Elspeth Probyn Eating the Ocean Duke University Press200 pages, 6 x 9 inches9780822362135

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