Opening my book to pages 64 and 65, you will sit beside Belzoni as he drew the tumbled wonders of Karnak. It is a safe bet that having done so, like him, you will want to keep on digging—while watching for the shadow of a Drovetti lurking behind the next pillar.Belzoni was the first man to open the great temple at Abu Simbel and to discover the entrance to the second pyramid at Giza. It is my hope that as soon as the Arab Spring turns to peaceful summer my readers will be booking visits to the Nile—remembering, of course, that memorializing one’s presence with a knife or chisel provides an opportunity to experience the pyramid-like solitude of an Egyptian jail.


