Monica L. Miller

Monica L. Miller is Assistant Professor of English at Barnard College in New York City. Her research interests include 20th and 21st century African American literature, film and contemporary art, contemporary literature and cultural studies of the black diaspora, performance studies, and intersectional studies of race, gender and sexuality. She holds a Ph.D. from Harvard University and a B.A. from Dartmouth College. The recipient of fellowships from the Schomburg Center for Research in Black Culture and the Andrew W. Mellon Foundation, she is the author of book chapters and articles in The New Literary History of America, the Gender on Ice and Zora Neale Hurston issues of The Scholar & Feminist, Bad Modernisms, and Callaloo. Her current book project, Affirmative Actions: How to Define Black Culture in the 21st Century, examines contemporary black literature and culture from five vantage points in order to assess the consequences of thinking of black identity as “post-black” or “post-racial.”

Slaves to Fashion - In a nutshell

Slaves to Fashion is a cultural history of the politics of black fashion and dress since the creation of the black diaspora, from the slave trade to the present. Dress has been (and continues to be) one of the most important ways in which we project a sense of self, a class status, and a place on the spectrum of gender identities, sexuality and nationality. This has been the case especially for black people who—though materially deprived in the West throughout history—have made the presentation of their bodies (hair, dress, gesture) a key component and signal of their self-definition and political, social and cultural possibility.Slaves were dressed by their masters; clothing was used to define black people as subservient. Almost as soon as a slave was issued a piece of clothing, he or she understood that the garment served not only to protect him or her from the elements, but was also part of a power struggle over black identity. Refusing to be defined by others, blacks have countered their representation sartorially, by pointedly playing with their clothing, manipulating it to better express the complexity of who they are.By examining cultural moments and artifacts that highlight the ability of dress, especially fancy dress, to both dictate and define identity, my book examines this power struggle between masters and slaves, free blacks and whites, upper and working class blacks at key moments and locations in black diasporic history. I look at the ways in which black people, once slaves to fashion, have made fashion their slave.

Editor: Erind Pajo
October 16, 2009

Monica L. Miller Slaves to Fashion: Black Dandyism and the Styling of Black Diasporic Identity Duke University Press408 pages, 9 x 6 inches ISBN 978 0822345855

“Dandy Jim, from Carolina.” Published by Firth and Hall, 1843 (New York). Courtesy of the New York Public Library.

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